1988 Douglas Laing Directors' Cut Bunnahabhain 25 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Islay, Scotland

Nose: Complex and elegant. Earthy, notes of roots, raw celeriac, then vanilla. With water: Nice notes of hay.

Mouth (neat): oh this is quite superb! An unexpected peatiness, a lot of spearmint, lemongrass, peppermint, lemon liqueur, grapefruits… A surprise, really, and a great one. With water: Even more excellent? All citrus and lemony grasses.

Finish: Long, a notch grass, oak, spicies and earthy again. Comments: what a great palate! Very well selected Messrs The Directors.